1000 lumens is the sweet spot now for constant use without the light getting too hot quickly. Lights above 1000 lumen will provide that extra punch when you need it, but will get hot quickly if you keep using them at the brightest setting.

250 lumens is all that’s needed to blind someone in the dark. CREE LEDS are the standard, used in all high-end lights.

Flood, Throw or mixed? When you work in different scenarios. Mixed beams have the best of both worlds, a spot AND a wide flood beam.

Avoid lights with ‘zoom’ or adjustable focus features. The less moving parts the better.

Around 200 meters at 1000 lumens is great. This covers most practical needs of first responders and urban use.

If the ANSI chart says 200m beam distance, the actual useful distance in real life would be divided by 3, so 66m.

Rechargeable AA batteries are preferred, when for any reason you can’t recharge your primary light.

AA batteries are easy to find all over the world and can be found even in natural disasters from TV remotes, clocks, or many other places.

Smaller or lighter than your primary light, so you can use it as a backup to your primary.

Also works great as a primary when you gear up for less demanding work or travel.

A hands-free headlamp, lantern, floodlight, L-torch.

All things that your primary light isn’t, but will come in handy depending on your work.

A small keychain light that helps you see or be seen when needed.

Avoid outdated button battery lights, and instead go with multi-function, waterproof USB rechargeable options.

Often overlooked, whistles draw the attention of nearby help when you can no longer shout for help.

In complete darkness, a whistle acts as a locator when all else fails.

Force multipliers can be a firearm or knife, but in most countries and for travellers, a tactical pen is a great replacement.

These have everyday use, and can double as glass breakers and personal protection.